subwoofer configuration help plz

**Fade** · 03-11-2011, 06:46 PM

Subwoofer: Kicker CompVR 10" Aluminized

Size (IN.,CM) 10, 25.0
Impedance (OHMS) 4 DVC
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)* 800/400
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 85.5
Frequency Response (Hz) 25-500
Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 5 9/16, 14.1
Mounting Cutout (IN.,CM) 9 1/4, 23.5
Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 0.8, 22.7
Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 3, 85
Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.25, 35.4
Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 1.75, 49.6

Amp: Orion-Cobalt-CO8001

Performance
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 300 x 1
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 800 x 1
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 400 x 1
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) ---
Minimum Impedance Bridged ---
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-30k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.9%
Signal to Noise Ratio 80 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v

If i wire them as the diagram shows below, will this work?

**Dicepticon** · 03-11-2011, 06:56 PM

yes, and its enough not to blow it. bridge that shits.

**x2o** · 03-11-2011, 07:28 PM

Yep, wire in parallel for a 2ohm load and all should be well. Be sure to set the gains properly, subs don't enjoy clipped signals

**r5a** · 03-12-2011, 04:17 PM

um, in the wiring diagram that looks like its using speaker wire to connect and that amp only takes RCA's for in outs, unless that amp has wire terminals which i dont see in that shot it won't work?

am i fail?

**silent3k** · 03-12-2011, 04:19 PM

the amp has to have wire terminals for speaker(s) and the rca plugs as well .......
is that wht ur saying you dont see in the pic ?

**r5a** · 03-12-2011, 04:28 PM

just a stupid product shot. i had to google the amp to make sure. it will work fine. for some reason that picture shows RCA terminals but an electronics site has this

"Speaker Connections: Although this is a mono amp, there are two speaker output terminals, internally wired in parallel. The speaker outputs are set-screw terminals. They will accommodate up to 12-gauge wire and require a 3mm Allen wrench to tighten (not included)."

**Fade** · 03-12-2011, 08:42 PM

i took it back since it didn't work and got a kicker ix500.1

mono subwoofer amplifier
275 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (500 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
selectable subsonic filter (24 dB at 25 Hz)
wired remote bass level control
Class D design
CEA-2006 compliant
balanced differential inputs
speaker-level inputs (requires an optional adapter)
preamp inputs and outputs
4-gauge power and ground leads and a 50-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
no onboard fuses — when installing multiple amps in a system, an additional 50-amp in-line fuse between the distribution block and the amplifier is recommended
optional IX mounting kit required for stacking amps
9-3/8"W x 2-3/16"H x 8-1/2"D

**kditty** · 03-12-2011, 08:51 PM

what exactly are you trying to do? for the record, i had those same speakers and they didnt last 10min with my jl 1200w amp, but they were the 12'' speakers.

**Fade** · 03-12-2011, 09:13 PM

Originally Posted by kditty

what exactly are you trying to do? for the record, i had those same speakers and they didnt last 10min with my jl 1200w amp, but they were the 12'' speakers.

i've had these compvr's for 7 years, never had a problem myself. i have two of them, but i can only afford to power one atm. running them at 500w x 1 (2ohm) seems like the sweet spot

**kditty** · 03-12-2011, 11:46 PM

Originally Posted by Fade

i've had these compvr's for 7 years, never had a problem myself. i have two of them, but i can only afford to power one atm. running them at 500w x 1 (2ohm) seems like the sweet spot

maybe it was just cos i got em at best buy, probably display since no package. i fell in love and then right out of love with car stereos. all it does it make me worry ill get jacked, pulled over ridin dirty, or just pulled over, i cant keep a rear view mirror on, my trunk no longer pops via button cos i shook the wire mech loose, my 6x9 rattle so hard i have to tighten them monthly. and i can fit shit in my huge ass trunk.

**kditty** · 03-12-2011, 11:51 PM

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ws0BjT2...J2-1000-1.html

this is one of the two amps im running. the other is an xplode 1200w with 2 10'' xplode pentagon shaped woofers. they are bad ass and hit harder than the 12s. i also have a set of old 12s in a ported box i dont use any more.

**kditty** · 03-12-2011, 11:53 PM

oh yea, that amp i love cos of the bass controll knob, if you buy an amp try to find one with the bass wire to run up front then you can mount it and control woofers from your seat with a knob, good for when you pass cops, at red light or pulling into house and dont want jackers to know you have bass

**Fade** · 03-13-2011, 12:19 AM

Originally Posted by kditty

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ws0BjT2...J2-1000-1.html

this is one of the two amps im running. the other is an xplode 1200w with 2 10'' xplode pentagon shaped woofers. they are bad ass and hit harder than the 12s. i also have a set of old 12s in a ported box i dont use any more.

i always heard xplod were shitty subs since they were sold at places like walmart.

i'm not looking to shake houses or being heard miles away, i just want some decent bass.. and running 10" you get that punch without all the boom

**kditty** · 03-13-2011, 01:01 AM

lol no these arent walmart subs. almost all good companies are selling out, these are from like 2k4 heres a pic of the 12in version. this is when they only sold at performance shops.

**kditty** · 03-13-2011, 01:02 AM

dbl post

**PasswordIDKWOT** · 03-13-2011, 04:47 AM

Originally Posted by kditty

maybe it was just cos i got em at best buy, probably display since no package. i fell in love and then right out of love with car stereos. all it does it make me worry ill get jacked, pulled over ridin dirty, or just pulled over, i cant keep a rear view mirror on, my trunk no longer pops via button cos i shook the wire mech loose, my 6x9 rattle so hard i have to tighten them monthly. and i can fit shit in my huge ass trunk.

The button in my whip stopped working like a year ago but the one on the key-fob works fine. It didn't bother me enough to ever look into it, but this makes total sense now.

**extide** · 03-13-2011, 04:51 AM

I rock a RF BD1501 and a 12W7. I have 2 W7's but only one is necessary in the GTI and that amp can put ~1100W RMS @ 3 ohm so it works well. I used to run both subs in parallel in my jeep (1.5ohm)

**PasswordIDKWOT** · 03-13-2011, 04:57 AM

I got 2 12" Kenwood subs and a Kenwood amp. I got them 3 or 4 years ago and they are still banging out flawlessly. One has even had a small crack in it since 2 winters ago when some idiot put a snow-scraper in my trunk and it has not gotten bigger or affected the sound quality so highly recom& Kenwood products. Also they link up with the stock system in my TL and I can control all sorts of ish from the unit.

**Freq** · 03-13-2011, 05:43 AM

I wrote a bunch of stuff but deleted it all. If you're looking for bass-like noise then Kicker is fine. If you just want garbage then the Xplods are fine.

The only reason they "sell out" (which they don't, stores just don't buy them) is because they're cheap and kids see the name Sony and think "quality" (hasn't been true in years). Also the Xplōd logo and go OMG THAT LOOKZ COOL MOM CAN I HAVE SOME??

Edit: Craigslist is for friend. I got an old school Boston 950w amp for $125 and hasn't fucked up once. My subs are 2 10" Polk MMs in a sealed box. I opted for 10s for the type of bass they produce (I listen a lot of rock); same for the box.

**Fade** · 03-13-2011, 04:48 PM

well i went and hooked up both subs in parallell so the amp sees a 4ohm load, which is only 275w, but they are bumping pretty hard and the gain is only at 8 o' clock. i iz happy

**Freq** · 03-13-2011, 05:20 PM

Even if you don't want the power, wire that shit down to 2ohm and lower the gain. Less gain = higher SQ.

**Fade** · 03-13-2011, 05:45 PM

i think i may be doing something wrong, being that i have them wired parallel at the speakers, then i have them wired in series to the amp?

Here is my awesome pbrush skills to demonstrate how they are wired out of the box. What load is this then>?

**Fade** · 03-13-2011, 08:19 PM

BUMP.. ANYONE?

otherwise im gonna have to take everything apart, re wire both subs in series then parallel to the amp :/

**Freq** · 03-13-2011, 08:33 PM

Did you read the documentation that came with your equipment? It tells you how to wire everything in every possible configuration.

**Freq** · 03-13-2011, 08:44 PM

This is assuming that your amp has two sets of speaker outputs (two positives and two negatives). If your amp only has one pair of outputs (a single + and single -) then disregard that part of the diagram and focus on the subwoofer wiring.

**Fade** · 03-13-2011, 10:55 PM

i found my exact configuration on a klausaudio website..

* Two 1 ohm DVC subwoofers = 1 ohm amplifier load * Two 2 ohm DVC subwoofers = 2 ohm amplifier load
* Two 4 ohm DVC subwoofers = 4 ohm amplifier load * Two 8 ohm DVC subwoofers = 8 ohm amplifier load

why there is no other reference to this wiring style around the internets is beyond me. if this is true, then i had them wired correctly all along and i unhooked one sub for nothing.

If i did happen to be running two dvc 4ohm subwoofers to an amp that wasn't rated for 1ohm, wouldn't the thing fault or something?

**Freq** · 03-13-2011, 10:59 PM

I thought you were only running a single DVC sub? Either way you don't want to run a resistance lower than what the amp is rated for. An amp rated for 2 ohm could probably handle like 1.8 ohm, but 1 ohm is right out of the question. A 1 ohm stable amp is going to cost probably 800 bucks.

**Fade** · 03-13-2011, 11:18 PM

Originally Posted by Freq

I thought you were only running a single DVC sub? Either way you don't want to run a resistance lower than what the amp is rated for. An amp rated for 2 ohm could probably handle like 1.8 ohm, but 1 ohm is right out of the question. A 1 ohm stable amp is going to cost probably 800 bucks.

that's why i disconnected one for unsureness if this wiring diagram that i've found is a legit wiring style. for now, i have one single dvc sub wired up, the other one is not atm.

i emailed them cats at klausaudio wondering why their site is the only one I'VE found to include that option and why other sites like kicker/jbl/fosgate only give two wiring options.

**Freq** · 03-13-2011, 11:21 PM

Well whichever configuration you decide to go with run 2ohm. When you install that second sub you'll want to rewire it so that you're running 2ohm and not 1, 4, or 8.

**Fade** · 03-13-2011, 11:32 PM

Originally Posted by Freq

Well whichever configuration you decide to go with run 2ohm. When you install that second sub you'll want to rewire it so that you're running 2ohm and not 1, 4, or 8.

problem is you can't run two dvc 4ohm subs at a 2ohm configuration, but if you could.. that would be awesome